September 15, 2025
Favre Leuba has entered the skeletonized watch market with its new Chief Skeleton, priced at $4,500 for the stainless steel model and $4,600 for the black DLC version. As the brand’s first-ever open-worked timepiece in its long history, it commands a significant premium over its standard models. The central question for any savvy buyer is straightforward: does the Chief Skeleton deliver enough value to justify the investment?
Pros & Cons: A Clear Verdict
To assess its value, it’s best to break the watch down into its core strengths and weaknesses.
Pros:
- Exclusive Movement: Favre Leuba collaborated with AMT, a Sellita sub-brand, for a bespoke caliber. This is a significant value-add, offering a custom feel often missing at this price point.
- Robust Build & Design: The 40mm angular cushion case is modern and well-proportioned. With 100 meters of water resistance and sapphire crystals on the front and back, it’s built for daily wear, not just display.
- High-Quality Details: Strong C1 X1 Super-LumiNova ensures excellent legibility in the dark, and the included quick-release FKM rubber straps are a practical, high-quality touch.
Cons:
- Standard Performance: A 41-hour power reserve is adequate but falls short of the 70+ hours now common in many modern movements.
- Significant Price Jump: The watch is substantially more expensive than Favre Leuba’s other Chief models, which could be a hurdle for existing customers.
Where It Sits in the Market
In the competitive sub-$5,000 Swiss watch space, the Chief Skeleton carves out a compelling niche. While many competitors use stock skeletonized movements, Favre Leuba’s investment in a unique caliber sets it apart. It offers a degree of exclusivity that punches above its weight class, competing with brands that often charge more for a similar open-worked aesthetic. It effectively balances a unique design and a custom-feel movement with a price that remains accessible compared to higher-end luxury players.
Final Recommendation
The Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton is a strong choice for the watch enthusiast who prioritizes modern design and movement exclusivity over brand recognition or class-leading specs. If you want a daily-wearable skeleton watch that stands out from the crowd and offers a bespoke feel without a five-figure price tag, this is an excellent value proposition. However, if your primary concerns are maximum power reserve or traditional aesthetics, you may find better options elsewhere.
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